1. Rear Engine Rider (RER) can't pull a hill
Rubber driven disc is worn out. Liner is worn or glazed (new style discs). Spring is out of adjustment. When RER is standed on end, the spring is located to the left the of drive disc. Grease or oil on the Drive disc. 2. Deck vibrates excessively
Belt is worn out or chewed up. Quill assembly (spindle) bearings are worn out or housing is damaged. Blades out of balance. Bent spindles or crankshafts (walk behind mowers). Slack in belt. 3. Rear Tine Tillers-Tines won't turn
Drive chain is broken. To prevent this, use only a Snapper shear bolt to mount the tines to the shaft.
1. Transmission belt comes off
Rear end is loose. Stretched secondary drive belt. Loose pully on transmission. 2. Diffuculty trying to get transmission from Neutral to Drive or Nuetral to Reverse
This is normal with MTD transmissions (to a point, if extrememe force is needed to shift gears, then you have further problems in the transmision.) What happens, the shift collar does not always line up when you stop the tractor. What you need to do is put the shift lever in the place you want (reverse or drive) while slowly letting out on the clutch. You should feel the shift lever pop into place. Then let the clutch all the way out. 3. Tractor will not move in any speed position.
Variable speed pully needs to be syncronized. Start Tractor. Put Transmission in Neutral. Depress the clutch and put speed lever in the highest position available on your tractor. Let clutch out. Depress the clutch again and put speed lever in 1st position. Let clutch out. Now put transmission in Drive. The tractor should now go. Damaged Transmission or damaged Hydro unit (Hydrostatic Transmissions only). Broken Primary or Secondary drive belt. 4. Blades will not stop spinning when the deck is in the "neutral" or highest positon.
Deck is out of adjustment. When you remove the access panel in front of the seat, there will be a rod that is connected to the deck engagment lever and the back right hand side of the deck. Move the engagment lever back and forth until you see the rod and where it connects to on the deck. Remove the rod from the tractor. Turn the adjustable knob clockwise a few times and reinstall into the tractor. Put deck in the off position and start the engine. Note if the blades are still turning. If so, remove the rod again and repeat the above steps until the blades stop spinning. Brake pads missing or worn out. The brake pads are mounted on the underside of the tractor, directly above where the pulleys are. Two self tapping screws hold the brake pads in place. 5. Tractor will not stop.
Adjust the brakes on the transmission. To do this, apply the parking brake. With a 1/2" wrench, tighten the nut on the brakes (usually right side of transmission) until you cannot push the trator forward and extreme force is necessary to make it move (both wheels will lock up and one wheel will try to spin the other way (due to the differential). Let off of the parking brake. See if the tractor will move forward freely now. If not, back off the nut until the tractor will move freely. Apply the parking brake again. If it still takes extreme force to move the tractor, then the brakes are set. If you can move the tractor, then you may need brake pads. Dowel pins stuck. It is possible, if you mower is stored in high humidity areas, for the pins in the brake assembly to get stuck. To free them, you may want to remove the right rear tire (eaiser to get access to the transmission) to get to the brakes, but it is not necessary. Remove the nut that adjusts the pads. Remove the flat washer and the brake arm. Remove the two bolts holding the brake housing to the transmission. Place the housing on a bench and knock the pins out with a punch. Clean the pins up on a wire brush. Run a pipe cleaner through the holes in the housing to remove any rust that transfered from the pins to the housing. Reinstall the pins into their holes. Install the metal plate in its housing and then install the pad. Assemble the housing back to the transmission. Connect the brake arm, flat washer and the nut. Adjust the brakes according to the above steps. Brake pads worn out. Replace the brake pads according to the above steps. When you get the housing off, you will see the brake rotor. Remove this to get to the other brake pad. When finished, adjust the brakes according to the steps in the first paragraph.
1. Mowers equipped with Personal Pace are hard to pull backwards.
The clutches have not disengaged yet. Before pulling backwards, roll the mower forward 6 inches, without the help of the self propelled. The clutches should be disengaged. Now pull backwards. 2. Rear wheel drive mowers will not pull.
Grease the Zerk fittings on the rear wheel adjustment assemblies. This grease allows the cam to kick out from the axle and grab the gear on the axle. The cams are stuck in the axles. Remove the wheel and the pinion from the axle. Pry out the cam with a pick or small screw driver. Clean the dried grease from the axle and clean with carburetor. Lubricate the cam and the axle keyway and re assemble. 3. Rear Engine Riders don't stop.
Brake pads have grease on them or need adjusting. Replace them with P/N 799021 brake pads (Tecumseh part number). To adjust, apply the parking brake. Tighten the nut until the wheels lock up and you cannot push the mower forward or in reverse. Release the brake and see if the mower will move easily or with slight resistance. If so, the brake is set. 4. BBC (Blade Brake Clutch) type mowers are sluggish to start.
When the blade is engaged, it takes a longer than normal and the engine bogs down before the blade will fully engage. Check the belt and idler pulley by removing the blade and the plastic shroud. You can also adjust the BBC cable by loosening the bolt that holds it in place on the top of the deck. Pull on the cable casing (black or silver part) until slight resistance is felt due to the spring. Hold what you have and tighten the bolt back.
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